Monday 23 May 2022

(Old) Tofu Street

There was an errand we needed to get done at Hong Kong Street that day. 

So we got that done, and after it was finished, we decided we'd switch up from our usual Central Clarke Quay hangout and go towards South Bridge Road instead. 

We contemplated going onto Circular.

But there was little on that road to be had for lunch on a weekend afternoon, so we decided to head down towards the South Bridge Road side of Chinatown instead. 

Past that building I call One George-something, past a narrow five foot way and we came upon this section that is today called Far East Square. 

I'm not very, very familiar with this place- I'm better with the opposite side of South Bridge Road where Hong Lim stands- but there're a good deal of shop houses here, there're a fair bit of eateries (even on a Sunday) and- I thought- more things to see. 

So we settled for a quick lunch of Taiwanese lu rou fan at this eatery in a shop house right along the main road. 

Let's just say that the bowl was big, the rice was fluffy, I liked the cucumbers, and the salted popcorn chicken was really good. 


There being no plans after that, we decided we'd head towards China Street and Telok Ayer Street that side.

No particular reason, other than the fact that I've always been intrigued by this side of the road. 

See, it's not a part of Chinatown that's' oft spoken, as in, you won't find it much in the walking tour itinerary and the only areas that get recommended are probably Club Street, and Amoy Street that side.

But both Club and Amoy sit on the opposite side of Cross Street, whereas the part I'm interested in spans from Pickering Street (Upper Pickering Street?) to Cross Street and from South Bridge Road to Telok Ayer Street. 



It might look pretty and modern- what with plant pots at strategic points, whitewashed walls, and refurbished window shutters on the upper floors- but this section holds a great deal of history, and if you look past the furniture, the alfresco seating areas, the chalk-written boards advertising happy hour beers, you might be able to sense what this place used to be. 


Admittedly, it's hard. 

Especially since the authorities (and private property owners) have done a fantastic job of revitalizing this place. 

I decided to just walk, and take pictures of whatever I could see.






If it were a (planted) tree casting a short silhouette over the skyscraper behind, so be it. 

If it were umbrellas part of the route leading to the buildings behind on China Street, so be it. 

Perhaps there might be a glass-paneled steeple in the frame of the Great Eastern Life Building (on Pickering Street) behind. 

If it were, then it would be. 

Today I wasn't here to try and eliminate everything before me in the name of history and stories of history. 

There were enough boards describing the history of the area- I think there was one about Nankin Row, there was one about the Samsui women, and (possibly) a little mention of Tofu Street that- as my grandfather told me- what is present-day Tew Chew Street. 

I wasn't here to take away (in my mind) the commercialization of the place. 

I was here just as a passer-by. heading from a Sunday afternoon lunch- to the Manulife building and Prudential building on China Street and Telok Ayer Street.