Bus Ride Sights: Toa Payoh-Tanjong Katong

It comes as a surprise to me just how many pictures of this one bus ride I have. 

It wasn't an exceptional ride.

It wasn't a ride that I hadn't taken before. 

But, I guess, new journey, new sights, and today's ride, together with the light, brought me a bunch of pictures that were somewhat familiar, yet new, all at the same time. 

The bus journey of Bus 31 began from Toa Payoh Bus Interchange where it first made a left onto Toa Payoh Lorong 6, passing by the area oft recognized as the open space in front of Courts. The public housing blocks of five-room flats passed by right after. 

These days we don't think of it much, but they served as Games Village accommodation for athletes back in September 1973 during the 7th Edition of what we now call the SEA Games. I wonder how the town of Toa Payoh Central looked like back then.

Past the HDB blocks, the bus crossed the junction of Lorong 4, went past what is now a big field but used to be the site of a (now demolished) one-room HDB block turned onto Kim Keat Link.

Sometimes it is easy to forget that there are flats here, but they have been here a long time, actually, and they border the entrance between the island-long expressway to the Toa Payoh estate. 

I'm glad I managed to capture a picture of the pagoda inside Lian Shan Shuang Lin Monastery. It would have been great to capture the name of the monastery engraved on a stone plaque kind of wall facing the expressway, but it is very near the turn, and normally the bus goes so fast here that it is impossible to take a picture. 

The bus went past what I think is Blk 195 Kim Keat Link here, and then after the Whampoa Flyover came up the school buildings of St. Andrew's Village. Which building is what, I don't know, but I like the fact that they have kept the tall, gentle coconut tree. 

Reminds one of the days when this whole area was a kampong with farms and all. 

The junction of Upper Serangoon Road came up after.

Then the bus did its roundabout before turning right onto Bendeemer Road.

Here the bus went past the bridge crossing the Kallang River, then the block housing restaurant Lai Wah, then Whampoa River. It's interesting to see how the blocks stand so sturdy and neat along the banks of the river. 

I didn't get to see the signboard of the Lai Wah Restaurant.

Would have been nice, honestly. 

Written in traditional, vintage lettering, it reminds people how there are cuisines and restaurants in this country that still stay where they are, not going away, not going anywhere. 

After the bridge of Whampoa River came the building of the former Texas Instruments, Micron Semiconductor today. 

Here the bus turned left onto Boon Keng Road, going past a couple of flatted factory buildings, then the noticeable blue Four Star Mattress Building, before crossing the Kallang River once again. 

This afternoon I managed to capture sight of (what I think is) the Chwee Kang Beo temple sitting at the little riverine of the Kallang River. 

Several decades old, she is now lit up beautifully at night, the bright red and gold outline of her roofs glowing like a beacon against the dark surface of the waters. I know very little about this temple, save for the fact that she has a decades-old history, she has sat anchored here in the Kallang River district all through the years of river clean-up, urbanization and re-development. 

I'm not sure if this is the original site of the temple though.

Online sources tell me that the trustees had secured a small parcel of site land in the early nineties, began construction of a new building in 1993, and had its official opening in 1999.

After crossing the river, the bus now entered the vicinity of Upper Boon Keng Road here, with the flats on the left side, and Lorong 1 Geylang on the right. 

There's something about this area that I have noticed for a while now. 

Might as well talk about it. 

You know, it's not often mentioned, but this zone of Boon Keng, Upper Boon Keng, and Geylang Bahru is more significant than we usually think. The estate is not one of those that pops immediately up in the head when we think about public housing, but from one end to the other, the zone sits snugly between MacPherson on one side, and Kallang-Lavender on the other. It also connects the neighborhoods of Central Singapore (Toa Payoh and Balestier that side) to that of Geylang, Mountbatten and the East Coast. 

I always find myself marveling at the change in scenery, and energy when Bus 31 moves down from the PIE to Bendeemer and into Boon Keng. 

All of a sudden you feel like you're transported away from the forest-dense, large-tree atmosphere of the Central Catchment to the spacious coastal vibes of Kallang and the East Coast. 

I don't really know how to describe it.

It's just there. 

A change of atmosphere.

A change of energy.

Suddenly the bus moves away from the flats to the factories to the waters to the junction where Kallang MRT meets Sims Avenue and Mountbatten Road up ahead. 

Maybe it's the waters. 

Maybe it's how the waters bring the atmosphere and energy from the hills down the urban all the way to the wide open spaces close to the sea. 

We don't think about it, but looking at Google Maps now, on the longitude from North to South, they're like sections placed one behind the other all along the rivers.

That's fascinating.

What's equally fascinating is how the atmosphere changes, quite literally, once you go past Upper Boon Keng Road.

You're literally in the east once you cross that juncture. 

From the bus stop on Lorong 1 Geylang, the bus now turned left onto Sims Avenue, trundled down a short stretch, then made a right onto Sims Way.

This afternoon, the bus stopped at the traffic light next to the Shell petrol station on Geylang Road, went straight ahead passing by the homes and indie shops of Lorong 4 Geylang (which you know are there but don't pay that much attention without you realizing why), then went onto Mountbatten Road. 

Here she went past the former Haig Boys' School- the structure still stands well- then made a left onto Old Airport Road. 

From here on, there were the flats of Pine Close- there is also a feel of nostalgia and heritage amongst them, followed by the renowned Old Airport Road Food Center with its offerings of all-day meals covering breakfast, lunch, dinner and supper, then the distinctive block of flats that hold the address of Jalan Dua. 

After this the bus continued its way on Old Airport Road a little, then made a right, turning past Dunman Road onto Tanjong Katong Road, where after the well-known chicken rice coffee shop, Chonkycam finally decided she would go back to her case, and sleep.

The Little India Stroll

It was a clear, blue sky type of day when I decided I wanted to take a bit of a walk around the enclave of Little India.  

For context, the enclave that Singapore calls Little India begins from the iconic HDB block above Tekka Market at Serangoon Road and continues down all the way until somewhere around where the junction hits Lavender Street. 

On either side, the enclave stretches towards Race Course Road on the northwest side and Jalan Besar on the southeast side. 

So, yes, like how Google Maps tells me, it is a big enclave. 

Coming here this afternoon, I had hoped to be able to visit the Indian Heritage Center, and maybe walk a bit down Serangoon Road towards the Mustafa side. 

But time is a thing that one has limit of, so I decided it a better idea to wander along the streets and lanes of the enclave instead.

At first I had not known where to begin, but then Campbell Lane, with her bazaar-style stalls and culture-rich shops, beckoned, so in from the main thoroughfare from Serangoon Road I went. 

Going past one of the first few stalls, I suddenly thought of a friend who had, about a decade ago, brought me to one of the shops here before. A person familiar with the prayer rituals of the Hindu faith, she had happily shown me the many sizes of clay pots, the many scents of incense sticks that anybody could buy and burn at home, and those little cone-shaped scent pieces that you put on a burner and lit for your chosen scent. 

I didn't get to go into the shops today. 

Maybe I was shy. 

Instead I just wandered along Campbell Lane itself, going past (perhaps) Dhana's Arts & Flowers and Jothi Flower Shop on the other side.

The first thing about this stretch that struck me were the aesthetics and the colors. This street is very, very colorful. 

I don't just mean the trinkets, hanging decorative items, prayer items, fabric decor, or the little everyday woven items that speak of India's canvas of fabrics and colors. 

I also mean the beautiful array of floral blooms, enhanced by the delicate fragrance of fresh jasmine flowers strung into garlands wafting through the air. 

These flowers make a unique, distinctive presence here in Little India. 

I don't think there are that many enclaves here in this country that have fresh flowers or fresh fruits at the front looking out to pedestrians and passers-by. 

On the same stretch too there were stalls offering batik-style clothes in the form of skirts, tops, pants, scarves, even relaxed shorts. 

The colors were gorgeous, full of vibrancy and life, a definite attraction to visitors looking to splash bright, cheerful colors into their lives. At one time I would most certainly have gone in to browse, but not today. There were roads I wanted to walk on, things I felt I wanted to see. 

Out from Campbell Lane now and onto Clive Street I went.

Directly opposite me was Chola Cafe (Google Maps tells me it serves briyani), and to my left was Madras Bakery. 

Special mention must be made about Madras Bakery. 

At first glance they don't seem like a bakery anyone would take notice of, but they have at least two outlets I've seen- one here, one on the main road close to the junction of Rochor and Jalan Besar, and may I say, they carry some of the most specialized bakes I have seen this side of town. 

I mean, we are all familiar with bread and pastries and everything, yes, but this one has a strong South Indian touch. I wish I could tell you exactly what it is they offer, but Google seems to be lacking in reference, I don't want to go to Tiktok or other, and so, based on my memory, besides all kinds of tea, chai and masala teas, there were puffs, pastries, cookies, sweets, and cakes. 

For the sweets, there was a huge variety of Laddu. Little balls of dough with a variety of flavors sat neatly arranged on their respective trays. There was also gulab jamun on the menu. If I'm not wrong, on one tray there were pieces of bright vermillion jelebi stacked up one upon each other, and then there were other sweets also all neatly arranged for you to choose and buy.

I don't remember much of the pastries. 

They were quite big- that's the only impression I have of them. 

But the cakes at Madras Bakery- that's another different story. It is so seldom, I tell you, that I see cakes sliced so thick, with so much filling between the sponge, and a generous spread of cream on top. 

Gave me a very homely feeling just looking at them. 

Also had me wondering if this were how the bakeries and cafes over in Madras (now Chennai) were; if this place had been designed to have a genuine touch of home. 

From this junction of Clive and Campbell, I went ahead to the same Campbell Lane on the other side of the road. 

I wasn't looking for anything in particular.

Whatever there was, there would be. 

As it turned out there was quite a fair bit to look at. 

You know how there are some places that appear to be chaotic at first look but somehow get straightened out after a while? 

That's how it was here. 

At first glance the five foot way seemed messy, haphazard, but after a moment, I bean to realize that it wasn't either. 

It was used.

Yes, there might be flattened cardboard boxes trampled all over the road close to the drain, but it meant that there were products and fresh produce on the shelves of the grocery store. It meant that someone had unpacked them from inventory, sorted them, counted them, arranged them, and made them ready for customers to buy. 

I didn't stop to see how the products and produce of this shop looked like. 

But the shop opposite was a different matter.

So bright, fresh, colorful, and enticing were all these veggies arranged that I asked permission to take a picture. 

We always celebrate the mom-and-pop grocery stores in county towns and villages in this place and that.

Why should they be any different here?

No doubt, there are the spices of masala, star anise, cardamom, curry, saffron, and a host of other spices which no one else can easily replicate, but a tomato is a tomato, isn't it? In the same way, is not an eggplant an eggplant? Is not a red onion a red onion the same way a long bean is a long bean? Is a lime sold here in the basket by the side of Campbell Lane any different from a lime sold in a stall at the wet market elsewhere? 

No. 

It doesn't mean that just because you can't taste the flavor of an onion means that there is no onion. 

It just means you learn to appreciate all the other flavors that life gives you as well. 

By this time I had walked past the Aarya Pure Vegetarian Restaurant and taken another picture of the Madras Bakery (with the Indian Heritage Center in the background). 

From here on though, the route becomes somewhat blurry. 

If I'm not wrong I went on to the junction of Campbell and Madras Street, where at this spot I took a lovely picture of The Daulat (hotel) with the Tekka Place multi-storey carpark standing tall at the end of the road. 

Here, I think I walked back on Madras Street, where, on a whim, I decided to take a picture of The Great Madras Hotel. 

The architecture of both hotels was beautiful. 

I don't have the expertise to properly describe the design and architecture of both hotels but The Daulat had two beautiful balconies on their upper floors. I was especially charmed by the architecture. It made me think of apartments in Europe. 

Then there was The Great Madras Hotel with her Art Deco balconies, the likes of which we don't see a lot around town anymore, save for the neighborhoods of Tiong Bahru and a few others here and there. 

I sometimes wonder if the rooms in these hotels actually do open out to the road, and if guests come out to look down onto the road below them. 

I stayed on this road a little while, then made my way onto Dunlop Street. 

This side of Little India I know literally nothing. 

So imagine my surprise when the not-so-new building of Singapore Aftercare Association turned up right in front of me. Apparently this building, and this association had been here for quite a good while. 

I kept on walking straight down Dunlop Street until I got to Perak Road. 

Here I managed to get a picture of this very colorful row of shop houses where Bismillah Briyani marked the first, Mehfill Mitra Di Bar and Restaurant, then Bhai Briyani slightly further down. 

You didn't notice so much how colorful this entire row was when you stood there at the junction, but a little while more and you saw how some of the window shutters had been painted yellow whilst others stayed their shades of blue and red. What's more, there was a bit of a whimsical art mural painted this side wall of the shop house. 

From here I decided to walk a bit further down Perak Road, going towards Upper Weld Road, and the HDB blocks of Veerasamy Road. 

I had, after all, not come here before- and I wanted to see what structures and establishments there were here. 

A short walk away from Bismillah Briyani stood the Church of the True Light- with a lorry belonging to a Construction & Engineering company parked right in front of it. By the way, this church building has a design that I know I have seen in pictures somewhere (I'm not sure where) but definitely there is a bit of resemblance to other church sanctuaries elsewhere in the world. 

I didn't walk down the entire length of Perak Road (I am familiar with the HDB blocks) so I turned right onto Dickson Road instead. 

Here there was a capsule hotel, the Thirumana Biryani restaurant on one side, and a hotel on the other side. On the surface, this side of Dickson Road looks like there isn't much to see, but there is a weight-loss center here, a few rooftop bars, and right at the junction with Jalan Besar, a coffee shop offering chicken rice and prawn noodles. 

Onto Jalan Besar I went, then turned back down into Dunlop Street where my feet passed by The Malayan Council, Masjid Abdul Gafoor mosque diagonally opposite, then Al Hussain Restaurant back on the same side as Bhai Briyani- on the opposite side of the mosque's gates. 

From here I made a left back onto Perak Road, where the whitewashed building of the former Perak Hotel beckoned me. The name of the hotel stands proud, but I think the property is undergoing some kind of renovation, so it's closed. 

Pity, I had hoped to go into the lobby and appreciate the interiors. 

If you're wondering why I am curious, well, we don't see such architecture very much anymore here on the island anymore, do we? There is a bit of a classic old-town vibe about this building, actually, although I can't quite pinpoint just where. 

Maybe it is in the neatly painted walls with the little spaced out neat windows opening out onto the road. 

Maybe it is in the peacock blue of the window shutters. 

I can't tell.

Perhaps the hotel will be refurbished the next time I come back to Little India for a stroll. I'm quite sure I'll be back. There are some other areas I am curious about and wish to see. 

Hopefully it will be soon.