Friday, 7 February 2025

Hong Kong: Chilly, Chilly, Chill

Heading to Hong Kong this time, once again we took the red eye, leaving the island on a Cathay Pacific flight out from Changi Airport's Terminal 4 at 0140. 

It is always a surreal feeling being at the terminal this hour. 


Perhaps it is the quieter crowd.

Perhaps it is also the fact that I am actually here, against many odds, flying out again. 

Sometimes I'm not sure why I do it.

Sometimes I'm sure.

This trip was one of them. 

We got to the Gate smoothly, and the flight left on time. 

One thing that surprised me about this flight were the absence of in-flight meals.

It might have been an assumption of mine that flying by CX meant it was a full service flight (when it wasnt) but I had actually spent a good amount of flying time waiting in anticipation for a tray to arrive. 

Frankly it confused me a little. 

Because there had been a snack and a meal the last time we flew by the same airline at the same time. 

Maybe the deal was different, I don't know. 

Nonetheless one does not bug oneself for things like these and so I slept most of the way out for three whole hours. 

We reached Hong Kong International Airport HKIA at 530am. 

But because I was not sitting near the window this time, plus I was kind of dazed, there are no pictures of planes parked on the runway.

There are, however, pictures of our breakfast at Delifrance where my friend ordered a big plate of hash browns, hot dog, croissant, a little bowl of corn, a bit of toast, green salad, tomato and egg, whilst I decided on a scrambled topped with tomato and corn, plus a croissant. 



Along with the plates came a bowl of canned mushroom soup.

A bit surprising to have soup this early in the morning, but that's all-day breakfast for you. 

From HKIA we took a cab to our hotel on 19 Wing Hing Road, and can I say that it was one of the most stressful car journeys I'd ever taken? 

Not because the driver wasn't good or that he swerved, but because I had forgotten to go to the toilet before boarding the cab and so every jolt and bump made me feel like I was going to lose control. 

What made it worse was that the route from Lantau Island to Causeway Bay was one of highway-highway-bridge-highway-tunnel all the way with no rest stop, and in any case, I didn't dare to ask. 

Let's just say, thankfully, there were no biological leaks, and I managed to avoid a very, very embarrassing scenario. 

Just when I thought I was going to have to try an alternative method, the cab stopped at the curb right outside out hotel, and guess what, on the street level of the Wing Hing Refuse Collection Center- next to our hotel- was a public toilet. 

And it was open. 

So, yes, this very desperate tourist dashed right in. 

No words can describe the immense sense of relief at having had this square shaped, fluorescent-lit, tiled floor of a wheelchair-friendly public toilet come to the rescue. 

Having finished, we went up to the lobby of Hotel Purple Hong Kong, and checked in. We left our bags there, my colleague waited a bit, and I went out to do a phone errand. 

First time being this side of town, I had no idea where I ought to go, so out I headed to the quietest street corner I could find. 

What I didn't realize, unfortunately, was that in Hong Kong, it isn't common for individuals to be standing streetside with earphones plugged into their ears. 

And there it was on that very street corner- in the middle of the Skype call- that I came upon three policemen doing their patrols. 

I don't know what they thought of me, but they approached, and asked me to show ID. 

Fortunately I had my passport and immigration slip with me, plus I had an idea of where my hotel was (even if I were still a bit unsure of the name), so I showed it to them, told them where I was staying, and said I was in the middle of a family call so could I finish it and talk to them later.

PTL, they verified my passport and face and immigration slip everything and left me alone after that. 

I'd be lying if I said I wasn't thrown off balance, even if a little afraid. 

I mean, being questioned by police on the street whilst you're waiting to get the keys to your hotel room is not a nice experience at all. 

For a while afterward I wondered just why it was I had been stopped. 

And then I realized that maybe, just maybe, all that hype about traveling outfits really do have a meaning to them after all. 

It isn't that I don't know style. 

It would have been fine had I been wearing just my super-oversized Platinum Mall graphic T-shirt and bright pink Shein track pants, with a nicer, neater, less manly backpack.

But I had thrown over me the addition of big H&M hoodie and right away, somehow, goodness knows how, instead of the tourist who had just flown in that morning on Cathay Pacific, I had become a homeless hobo. 

Experience aside (phew!) I got back to Hotel Purple, we got our room, and went in to settle down. 

The room we got was one of those I call functional rooms. 

Not that there're aren't aesthetics- there are- but they tend to be on the practical side and it is up to you to switch around as you want to. 

One thing about this room that charmed me was the view. 

It wasnt' as tight, nor as cramped as I had thought it might possibly be. 

No doubt, we didn't get a view overlooking the Wing Hing Road rooftops, or a view of the waters or the mountains or the hills of Hong Kong Island, but there was a charm looking at the glass windows of the hotel directly opposite, there was a charm seeing the compact little windows of residential blocks both left and right, and better yet, a glimpse of Siu Ma Shan behind. 



We unpacked, and afterwards headed out for lunch. 

Which, what with us being in this 'hood for the first time, didn't have an inkling where we should go. 

But there is Google Maps, and we found a Cha Chaan Teng on Electric Road called Fairwood where, after studying the menu, decided to share a meal of buttered thick toast, and a duck (or is it turkey) leg.


Duck or goose or turkey, I can't remember now, but this leg was big. 

Huge. 

Larger than anything I'd seen in a long, long while. 

And it was lovely, really, combining the well-roasted, slightly sweet piece of white meat with hot, crunchy toast that had a thick slab of butter tucked firmly between. 

We finished our meal, then off it was to the nearest MTR station Fortress Hill where we took the train down to Central.

Here, following the map once again, we made our way to the STAR Ferry Terminal using a route that brought us right through Worldwide Plaza that was, as I would soon discover, the shopping and hangout place for Filipinos working and living in Hong Kong. 

To hear of the Filipinos hanging out by the waterfront on their off days, chilling with their friends, is one thing. 

To see them happily cloistered around the shops in Worldwide Plaza as they buy their favorite snacks and noodles and biscuits shipped in from home is another. 

Didn't unnerve us (hello Lucky Plaza) one bit at all so into the crowd we plunged, carrying on the narrow corridor until we got the glass door taking us to the bridge that would lead us to the AIA Carnival right by the harbor. 




At the carnival here, we hung out here a little bit, taking in the sights, the Big Top, then afterwards decided that since we were here by the water, might as well take the STAR Ferry across to Tsim Sha Tsui for dinner. 


It has been a long, long time since I last took the ferry.

Maybe more than twenty years ago.

Tickets weren't expensive, like a dollar or so, but there wasn't any counter to get them from. Instead there was a self-service machine where you could chose your destination, pay using your card, and off to the correct pier you would go. 

One thing about the Ferry Terminal that interested me was just how they kept everything like how it had always been, yet functional for today's visitors, and today's crowds at the same time. 

The gates leading to the pier remained closed as everyone gathered behind, waiting for them to be open. Once they did, everyone headed down the slope and to the small little gangway where you could get on and into the ferry itself. 

We managed to get ourselves two seats side by side, and there we sat until the ferry pushed off. 

It was lovely, nostalgic even, to be there amidst passengers both locals and tourists alike.

You could tell who the tourists were. 

They were the ones busy taking pictures. 

Some of them took pictures of the ferry. 

Some of them pictures of themselves on the ferry.

Others decided the cityscape of Hong Kong might make a better picture. 

Me, I moved to the side of the ferry where I could look over the water (and the currents) and got myself a picture there. 

On the Tsim Sha Tsui side we disembarked, made our way out of the terminal towards the Harbour City side, then went down the road towards Kimberly Road to Yung Kee Roast Goose Restaurant where this evening we wanted a meal of roast goose. 

It should come as no surprise to anyone familiar with the roasted meats of Hong Kong when there's mention of roast goose. 

This dish of a roasted bird is one of the signature dishes in the territory and unless you're vegetarian or vegan or just not a fan of roast meats, one cannot come to Hong Kong and not have a go at it. 

So there we were, on a lovely chilly evening, standing in line to enter the restaurant, which, by the way, does not take reservations, and it don't matter how much you're going to order, you queue. 

This evening we had a plate of roast goose, a plate of tofu cubes and a separate dish of roast pork. 

The goose, when it came, surprised me with its size. 

What with not having had it in recent days, I had completely forgotten just how large of a bird this goose could be. 

But large or no large, the bird was perfectly roasted with a nice layer of crisp yet crunchy skin that made you want to bite into it right away.

Yung Kee's had a slightly peppery taste (I think) that made me wonder if they'd placed some sort of herbs whilst roasting the bird. 

Beneath the skin and between the meat, there was a layer of fat so evenly distributed that every bite brought you a taste of marinated meat, fragrant roasted fat and crisp brown skin all at the same time.

A part of me wondered if I could simply eat up all the skin and take the meat to go. 

But I didn't know how to ask, and from the looks of the restaurant's crowd, it didn't seem like the wait staff would have any patience for my stumbling Cantonese either. 



Plus there were two more dishes which were, shall I say, just so good. 

One might think that a renowned restaurant like this is only good with the roasted meats- like the deliciously satisfying roast pork which also had a very crisp skin and a ratio of meat to fat at 1:1- but their tofu wasn't to be disdained either. 

It is a simple dish, yes, simple and clean, but it does take some sort of a skill to make the skin outside crisp and light with the tofu inside still soft and smooth. 

Then there were all these crunchy bits over and around the dish, all lightly salted, so moreish that you easily reached for more. 

I liked the sweet sauce that came with the roast pork. 

A sort of plum sauce that wasn't very sweet, it went well with the meat, blending the taste of sweet and savory together with the meat. 

There was just one thing though.

I might have enjoyed all of the dishes better had I not been starting to feel full by that time, but the goose, the pork and the tofu all were of standards too good to leave on the plate and ignore, so we finished them all. 

Dinner over we headed to the Ling Fung Mall (that we somehow managed to find after a bit of aimless wandering) where my friend bought two tubes of skincare serums that we call 4-in-1. 

There was a phone errand I had to do after that, so off it was to the lobby of the Kimberly Hotel close by, then we took a Grab back to Hotel Purple. 

Tuesday, 28 January 2025

New Year's @ OSCARS

So thankful, I tell you, that I could be back at OSCARS in Conrad Centennial Hotel for New Year's Eve dinner this year.

The suggestion had come as a surprise. 

I had thought I'd be having a much more casual meal at a much more casual place- which I wouldn't mind- but since I'm not the type to say no to an invite for a hotel buffet, so, yes, I went. 

I've said it before. 

I'll say it now. 

OSCARS has one of the most interesting buffet spreads ever. 

I don't mean it in terms of buffet offerings (only) but also the aesthetics, which, to me, are one of the cutest and most charming ones I've seen. 

Hitherto I haven't had much of a chance to take picture of the food at the counters, except during Lunar New Year, so glad I was that I was able to take picture of it this time. 

Never mind that all I managed to take was of the dessert table. 

Seeing the pine cones, the nutcracker sentinel dolls, the streamers and the poinsettias was more than enough to get me into the mood, and whet my appetite. not to mention the neatly sliced stollen, the beautifully stacked panettone, and the big dish of tiramisu that you could take as much as you liked.

This evening I decided to begin dinner with salad, and fruit. 

I'm the kind of person who prefers carb salads over veggie salads, so I had a plate holding a little bit of macaroni salad, a bit of potato salad, some cherry tomatoes, and slices fruit (which I had wanted to take the last time but somehow missed).

It didn't matter to me that I was starting dinner cold.

Salads make for a great appetizer, especially when there's a bit of chew, and better if there be natural sweetness from dragon fruit and cantaloupes. 

I went for the hot almost immediately after, getting myself a plate holding mashed potato (with truffle oil!), a slice of honey baked ham (I couldn't resist!) and several pieces of what I think is grilled pumpkin. 

Dont' laugh at my choice of mashed potato.

OSCARS does theirs really, really good.

I don't know if it's a Mediterranean thing or an American thing, but their mashed potato (when eaten warm) has the richness of butter, the smoothness of well-blended potato, and the slightly salty, earthy taste of truffle oil.

It's the butter part that gets to me, I think. 

Perhaps I've always had a fondness of buttery whipped potato, and although a part of me doesn't want to feel anything for it as how I used to, the palate today still welcomes the butter, the smooth creamy texture and the solid, settling warmth each time I have it. 

Not just that, pumpkin, too, is one of my favorite vegetables. 

Colorful, soft, mushy, easy to cook and easy to eat, I only wish it were more available at the places I go to, or even as snacks.

Sometimes I get to have the steamed version from the cai fan stalls, but I love it best when it's grilled, or fried. 

In fact I liked this root vegetable so much that after a serving of laksa soup, I went looking around for more food, and ended up with another serving of the same grilled pumpkin, the same mashed potato with truffle oil, but this time, with an additional bit of beef. 

It's almost hard to believe that I got somewhat full just by eating potatoes and root vegetables, but no one comes to a hotel buffet and eats just enough.

No, you whack. 

You whack good. 

The stars of this evening's dinner had to be the salmon sashimi, the laksa, and the baby lobsters, of which we took plates counting at least three. 



I like salmon sashimi. 

It is a dish that is best eaten as an opener, but is also one of those dishes that can be eaten anytime during the meal. 

This evening I chose to space out the sashimi and have it as and when during the course of the meal. 

Seeing the orange of the salmon made me happier.

Likewise with the orange of the laksa, where, I must say, we went ballistic, with two and a half bowls, that had, each time, not just the noodles and the quail eggs, but heaps of baby lobsters whose flesh we patiently peeled, and dunked into the soup.

I'd like to know how it is between lobsters and prawns that I can have the meat of at least six or seven lobsters whilst with the latter I get full with only three. 

It's true.

I've tried. 

Prawns are the kind of food where all I eat are three- dipped in Thousand Island salad cream- and that's it, I have way less appetite for anything else. 

Can't say the same for lobsters though. 

Three plates of lobsters went into three different bowls of laksa, and only on the last bowl did we admit that we were starting to feel kind of full. 

But there was still dessert, which not for the life of me we were going to miss. 

So off it was to the dessert counters. 

My friend helped himself to tiramisu, some of the jellies in glass, and cake. 

I, on the other hand, went for the log cake, the panettone, and a scoop of the tiramisu.

The log cake was so good. 

Okay, so it reminded me a little bit of old-school yet timeless black forest cake, but oy, it (felt) richer, and somehow it seemed more delish, had more cream, more blueberry, even a thicker sponge. 

I liked it. 

Pity I couldn't take more. 

Which, now that I think about it, I should have.

I should have gone for the other desserts too, like the stollen, the waffle and ice cream, the apple crumble, the matcha chocolate cake, even the macarons and the Christmas cookies that come only once a year.

But that's life, and hopefully for the year of 2025 I'll get a chance to eat here at Christmas season again, and this time I'm going to make sure I take more. 

Sunday, 26 January 2025

Going UpCountry

It wasn't my intention to write this post. 

I have, after all, already written three.

But then I looked again at the collection from this weekend trip, and thought to myself, with this being my first time back to Malaysia after a twenty year hiatus, heck, maybe I should write a fourth.

So here we are, armed with a batch of pictures that born and bred Malaysians would not bat an eye to, but is fascinating to someone who has spent her whole life on a little dot of an island surrounded by flat ground, concrete buildings and horticulturally planted trees. 

For the record its not as if there can't be any rubber trees or palm trees or anything of that sort. 

We used to have them. 

We just don't grow them now.  

Somewhere along the way the ground dried up or something, I don't know.

And so it becomes such that if we want to get grounded with nature or have our fix of forest and cultivated farm, we have to cross the Causeway and go upcountry.  






Locals here on the island often say that they go to Malaysia to visit family, for the food and for the shopping. 

Whilst that's true, there are those of us who do go to the country just for a quick glimpse of what our own island used to be, yet no longer is. 

There's a kind of vibe in the country that seems to be also prevalent throughout parts of South East Asia. The vibe is a little hard to define but it's a kind of small-town, kampung feel can be described as both idyllic and rustic at the same time. 

It really depends on how you define the vibe. 

Could it be the presence of the coconut trees?

Could it be the presence and color of the soil, or the untouched tropical forest that surrounds many a house and which you don't realize until you're in these parts? 









It's difficult to define just what this is that makes one feel familiar with the kampung vibe- it might even be the harmony- but there were plenty of such scenes, most on the outskirts of Melaka as the transport was going in, or out, and in a way, it made me feel at ease.

The world hadn't changed. 

Sure, it had evolved, but in places like Malaysia where there was more than enough land, they could keep what places like Singapore used to be. They could keep things at ease and timeless. They could decide- on their own- whether or not they wanted to evoke change. 

In a sense there was a huge part of just 'letting it be', and even though people like to say that it's not good for progress etc etc, perhaps that is a factor we stressed out urbanized people need. 

It wasn't just the kampung vibe that I caught my eye.

There was also, the presence of space and the sight of all them trees.

A long time ago I used to get bored with the view of palm tree after palm tree after palm tree, but no more. Now the sight of them actually calmed me down and soothed me. 






But what really caught my attention- what I really, really were eager for- were the hills. 

It would have been nice had I been able to see the hill range of Titiwangsa that stretches over Pahang, Kelantan, Perak, Selangor and Negri Sembilan, but seeing the foothills of the foothills along the North South Expressway wasn't too bad either. 

The hills fascinated me.

Probably because I'd just come from Kanchanaburi not too long ago.

Or probably because I've been fascinated by their hills ever since I discovered that the hill in the horizon seen from my bedroom window back in Singapore was likely one of the Gunungs in Johor. 

There was a time when I'd get bored with seeing tree after tree after tree out the window of a bus journey. 

But now, no more. 

The view has become soothing. 

The view has become nostalgic.

And I'm thankful for it.